Graham Lee Autry
You pass by about 30 drive-thru coffee shacks on your way up, over, and down Stevens Pass. At most of them, a lonesome barista drops a single chocolate-covered coffee bean in the valley of your plastic lid with each order-a simple little reminder that you are definitely in the state that spawned Starbucks. The teetering bean becomes evermore useful as you round the southern face of Tumwater Mountain and enter what at first, second, and seventh glance is a Bavarian hamlet.
Set against the pitching alpine
Cascades, the cozy town square is lined with flat-nosed buildings
capped by low-angled overhanging rooftops. These are designed to hold
winter snow for insulation, but more importantly they forge the
inviting aesthetic of a far away, magical place. But this is no
wormhole to southeast Germany circa 1700, it's Leavenworth
, Wash., a small city two hours outside
of Seattle with a population just over 2,200 that draws over a
million tourists each year.
In the early 1960's, Leavenworth made the switch from anonymous, decaying mountain town to something much different by redesigning the city center with Bavarian themes at the fore. To this day, the city requires that all of the buildings and businesses in the town square adhere to certain style requirements, covering everything from trim to balconies to murals, and even publishes a list of approved fonts that businesses can use on their signs.
The biggest draw here is indeed the setting, both for the timeless bit of fantasy the town square provides and for the full roster of outdoor activities native to the area-skiing, snowboarding, dog sledding, hiking, fishing, rock climbing, camping, horseback riding, and golfing to name a few. But those looking for a bit of culinary adventure can stake a claim in Leavenworth as well.
Fittingly, German fare is in abundance, with local stalwarts like King Ludwigs Restaurant and Munchen Haus serving schnitzel and sausages and oversized mugs of beer on classic blue and white tablecloths, but there are some surprises as well.
South is a Nuevo Mexican restaurant at the east end of town opened by a local couple, Cappy Bond and Price Gledhill, that met in California, where they enjoyed a rich bounty of Mexican food. "When we moved to the area, we started our search for a replacement Mexican restaurant-our regular spot," Bond says. "We found some decent restaurants, but nothing that satisfied us."
In need of a fix, they decided to open their own taqueria. A friend helped them find a vacant spot in town and seven months later, South was open. Like many of the businesses in Leavenworth, South is a lure for tourists, but it was designed with locals in mind. From the street, it looks as though South could be selling lederhosen just as easily as ceviche, but inside, standouts like a carne asada torta on fresh bread slathered with guacamole and the rich and savory Oaxacan Black Mole make a sound case for the restaurant's intentions.
Locals also gravitate to the Renaissance Café , a subterranean hideaway with spectacular breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus bearing a rich selection of creative vegetarian and carnivorous options. The Hungry Hiker, an open-faced breakfast wrap with chicken apple sausage, potatoes, and eggs, is the perfect fuel for a day on the trails, while the über-garlicky God Food is an ideal way to cap an evening (especially if you're dining alone).
For an elevated fantasy experience-even by Leavenworth's standards-the Mountain Home Lodge is your place. Along with luxury suites, this resort, located just outside of town, has a private cabin available for the ultimate in savory solitude. A worthy retreat year-round, the Lodge is a most remarkable wintertime retreat. The 20-acre plot and its picturesque views become a virtual snow globe once cold weather descends on the Cascades.
A breakfast of eggs benedict and pumpkin pancakes with cider syrup gets you ready for a day of cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowmobiling, or relaxing in a snow-ensconced hot tub. Once evening rolls around, an elegant three-course dinner featuring Chef Thomas Obregon's seasonal creations is complemented by a world-class wine list.
So whether you make the trek to Leavenworth with river rafting or relaxing in mind, prepare for three things: captivation, caffination, and truly gustatory vacation.