Andy Hume

There is, perhaps, no better destination to indulge the splurging American's whim than France-home of modern gastronomy, center of world fashion, and source of the grape lover's native soil. France has a particular yen for luxury. You can find it everywhere-down tiny, small-town cobbled streets or the rural fields and forests of the Ardennes. It's not overdone but done well, in classic style.

Any New World tourist's French excursion begins in Paris. The beautiful Hilton Arc de Triomphe is a strong recommendation for the traveler accustomed to American-sized rooms. An Art Deco dream, the hotel is home to Le Safran restaurant, offering a courtyard at the center of the hotel that somehow manages to silence the busy Parisian streets. Inside, at quaint tables, my fellow travelers and I enjoyed the best foie gras of our entire trip to France-and we ate it everyday. Try it with the "Saint Jacques" (scallops) to experience a French holiday specialty. Then head over to Purple Bar, a fashionable, youthful hotspot colored (of course) in regal purple and lined with cozy booths.

But Paris is certainly not all France has to offer. For a truly unique experience, one should head out into the green, rolling countryside. Champagne, home of the country's most decadent of wines, is also home to some its most elegant châteaux, former royal residences cum hotels. Château de Montaubois in Signy L'Abbaye was built in the 1700s from the stones of the town's former abbey (itself built in the 12th century by St. Bernard) and has been painstakingly restored to its original splendor by current owner, Jean-Francois Monteil. Situated in the deep, leafy Ardennes landscape with museum-quality artwork throughout, each room is an elegy to French aristocracy. The Château gently transports its guests to a more comfortable version of the 18th century-plush bedding and hot showers included.

The village of Signy where the Château sits may be tiny, but rest assured that the dining is incredible. Auberge de L'Abbaye , a small inn and restaurant, has been run by the same family for over a century. The atmosphere is welcoming and the menu large and rustic, with many ingredients grown or raised on the restaurant's nearby organic farm; it doesn't get any fresher than their wonderful, grilled Texel lamb. The surrounding area is decidedly rural and offers a peek into the Old World with tours of 15th century fortified churches and barely touched wilderness hiking trails .

No visit to Champagne would be complete without stepping underground into the chalk and limestone caves where their namesake drink is fermented and aged. Many of the caves that were dug by monks in the 12th century are still in use. Champagne Drappier in nearby Urville provides the ideal location for a scientific, historical, and gustatory tour of Champagne production. Michel Drappier, a 7th generation producer, brings a charming wealth of knowledge to the Champagne industry. In recent years, he has moved his family's operation back to more natural, traditional practices; they eschew the use of sulfur whenever possible and age their effervescent wine in the limestone caves of Reims. Drappier is consistently considered one of the top Champagne houses in the region, known especially for their production of the world's largest bottle of Champagne-the Melchizedek, which is equivalent to 40 regular-sized bottles (or 30 liters).

If reds are more to your liking, you'll have no problem heading over to Burgundy on the super quick TGV train for a taste of the Pinot Noirs. In the Côte d'Or, the grape-producing region of Burgundy, numerous small villages dot the "route des grands crus" between Beaune and Dijon. Cars are welcome on the paved, single lane roads that connect each town, but if you have the time, I definitely recommend touring on bicycle. At the end of the bike tour, stop to visit one of the local vineyards: Maison Michel Picard in Chassagne-Montrachet, one of the finer producers in the area, offers tastings, tours, and receptions in its elegant château.

Hotel-golf resort Château de Chailly in Chailly sur Armançon offers some of the more distinguished lodging in the area. Classified as a national monument, the former medieval fortress sits on one of the area's few 18-hole golf courses. The exquisite dining room contains an all-stone tasting area with a single stone slab table-a medieval masterpiece, giving its guests an idea of what it must have been like to taste wine with kings in centuries past. Nearby medieval village Châteauneuf is home to the castle of the same name and worth an afternoon excursion through the hilly, cobbled streets. Stop to visit the open-air market to sample local fare like spiced breads, foie gras (again), wine, and cider.

Beaune and Dijon are Burgundy's metropolitan hearts, but Beaune has historically been the region's wine-trading center. Some say that if the streets were lifted from the surface, Beaune's underground would look like a maze of cellars. As the trading is done directly with producers, the shops offer great prices on hard-to-find wines. Or, if you choose to buy directly from the vineyards, Wine Collector , a local company operating between France and the U.S., will ship your purchases back home for you.

One last indulgent meal was in order before heading home. Just outside of Beaune, in Pernand Vergelesses, sits Le Charlemagne , a Michelin-starred Japanese fusion restaurant. Chef Laurent Peugeot is an undeniably passionate and talented gourmet. His four years working in Japan have enhanced his beautiful and delicious creations-from the simple, chic garden entrance, to courses served in smoke-filled plastic balls, to dessert made with Pop Rocks, it's clear that Peugeot is intent on delivering meals pleasing for all the senses. Thankfully, our meal was not one that sat too heavy: the red tuna tartare-complete with liver-topped with tiny pieces of grapefruit supreme delivered an amazing mixture of smooth and sharp, rich and light, and came accompanied by the perfect '05 Clos du Dessus des Marconnets. Reservations to eat at the "chef's table" in the kitchen are available, where diners can see the artist in action.

In the air over Atlantic waters, I closed our trip with braised beef, a wedge of Brie, and a piquant red wine-from France, of course. Admittedly, Paris, Champagne, and Burgundy are but the tip of the French iceberg, but I've learned they're phenomenal places to start exploring the wiles and ways of the food- and wine-rich Old World.

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