Jeff Steen
Tucked into the bucolic green of Napa Valley, The French Laundry stands as a bastion of culinary genius. The menu changes daily, but the experience is always unforgettable; in these waning months of summer, Mediterranean daurade couples with Hobb's Bacon, a sweet fish ringed with saltiness and the crispy-crack of perfectly cooked fatback-
But I'd rather talk about dessert. It's not that I dismiss entrées, salads, appetizers, and soups out of hand, but the sweet crescendo to a meal is the one course to which my stomach is forever loyal.
Take for example, the Tellicherry Pepper "Panna Cotta" at Thomas Keller's French Laundry, or perhaps the Strawberry Consommé. The flavor combinations are beyond me-treats enjoyed only in the setting of shining silver place settings and snow-white tablecloths. Who would think to take a savory spice and marry it to sugary treat? A fruity consommé? Even Paul Bocuse would be impressed.
While I am perpetually in awe of the Kellers of the culinary world, I relish the thought of creating such confections on my own. It is, after all, an era of culinary empowerment; gourmet sweets need not be tucked away in the recesses of three-star restaurant kitchens.
Which is why the staff of DiningOut spent a sweet afternoon with Ritz-Carlton Denver Pastry Chef Leslie Ann Viets. With winter fast approaching, we wanted some tutelage on how to make the elegant desserts of our many restaurant memories at home. Crimped, beaten, frothed, and folded, here are the dishes that made for a toothsome education.
Chocolate-Peppermint
Soufflé
makes five soufflés
Ingredients
1/3 c white sugar
1/3 c all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 c whole milk
4 large eggs, split, whites reserved
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp peppermint extract
3-1/2 Tbsp green crème de menthe
liqueur
3/4 dark chocolate (64-percent),
chopped into 1/2-inch cubes
5 ramekins, buttered and dusted with sugar
Method
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium-sized bowl, mix the sugar, flour, and salt together. In a small sauce pan, heat milk over medium heat. When the milk comes to a simmer, slowly add some of the milk to the sugar-flour mixture and whisk to a smooth consistency. Add the remaining milk and whisk until smooth.
Return mixture to the sauce pan over medium heat and whisk constantly until mixture is thick and bubbly. Quickly add the egg yolks and continue to whisk until the mixture is thick and paste-like. Remove pan from heat and transfer to a large bowl. Add the vanilla and peppermint extracts, along with the liqueur, and whisk together. Cover with cling wrap to prevent mixture from developing a skin, then set aside to cool at room temperature. This is the soufflé base.
Once the soufflé base has cooled, beat egg whites to a soft peak. Add 1/3 of the whites to the base, folding in gently to combine. Add the remaining 2/3 of the egg whites and fold to incorporate. Add chopped chocolate and fold in using only 2 or 3 folds.
Pour soufflé mixture into ramekins until each is filled to the brim. Rap each ramekin on the counter to eliminate any excess air bubbles in the soufflés. Bake on a pan for 12-14 minutes. Serve immediately with a dusting of powdered sugar and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Cold, heavy cream is also a good accompaniment.
Lemon Pudding Cake
makes six individual
cakes
Ingredients
1-1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
3/4 c white sugar
2 tsp lemon zest
3 eggs, split, whites reserved
3 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/4 c milk
1/4 c heavy cream
1/4 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
pinch table salt
6 ramekins, buttered and dusted with sugar
Method
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Cream the butter, sugar, and lemon zest in a stand mixer (or by hand) until butter has broken down and zest is fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add the egg yolks while mixer is running, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each yolk is added. Once all yolks have been added, mix until volume has increased slightly and mixture is creamy. With mixer still running, slowly add flour. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
Combine milk and heavy cream in a bowl. Add milk-cream mixture and lemon juice alternately, starting and finishing with the milk-cream. Once this has been well incorporated, remove mixture to a separate bowl and clean mixer.
Beat egg whites with salt to soft peaks. Add 1/3 of beaten egg whites to the custard base and fold in to lighten mixture. Add the remaining egg whites and fold in gently to incorporate. Portion puddings among the 6 ramekins and place in a 2- or 3-inch-deep baking pan. Fill with enough water to cover the bottom half of the ramekins and bake for 30-35 minutes until tops are puffed slightly and golden brown. Remove ramekins from water bath and chill until ready to un-mold and serve.
To serve, invert each individual pudding cake onto a plate and lightly tap a few times to release. Serve with berry sauce and sweetened whipped cream.
Olive Oil Cake
makes two cakes
Ingredients:
vegetable spray and cornmeal for
dusting pan
1-1/2 c good quality, fruity olive oil
1 c fresh orange juice
3 eggs room temperature
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 scant tsp baking soda
1/2 scant tsp baking powder
2 c all-purpose flour
2 c sugar
1/4 cup dark rum or brandy
1-1/4 c whole milk
1 Tbsp lemon zest
1 tsp ground fennel
1 Tbsp fresh chopped rosemary
1/2 c lemon or orange marmalade
sweetened raspberries or blackberries
for accompaniment
Method
Pre-heat oven to 350. Lightly spray two 9-10 inch cake pans with vegetable spray and dust with cornmeal. Simmer the orange juice in a small pan until reduced to 1/4 cup. Remove from heat and add the salt to dissolve. In a separate bowl, sift together all the dry ingredients except the sugar. In a mixing bowl, beat the eggs until blended and broken down. Add the sugar and beat until light in color (about 3-4 minutes). Slowly stream in the olive oil, mixing well. Add the liquor, milk, lemon zest, and rosemary. Mix on medium speed until well blended. Add the sifted ingredients and mix until well blended.
Divide the batter between the cake pans. Place in the oven and bake about 40 minutes until the center springs back and the top is light golden brown. Cool in pan. Run a knife around the edge of the cake, then remove from pan.
If necessary, warm the marmalade slightly to liquefy and facilitate spreading. Brush the top of the cakes with the marmalade. Sprinkle with rosemary. Portion and serve with a scoop of good quality honey ice cream (available in most grocery stores), and lightly crushed, sweetened raspberries or blackberries.
BAKING TIPS:
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